Seeing an AC75 racing boat up close is a beautiful and exciting thing, something most yacht racing fans never experience. But during the first week of the Louis Vuitton Cup round robin in Barcelona, the chrome hulls and tall sails Slow downEmirates Team New Zealand’s monohull suddenly loomed large before me. It felt very close—so close I could touch it—as it glided past our Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45, coming to a stop about 40 metres away.
Slow downwhich will defend the America’s Cup for New Zealand, is a boat of extraordinary beauty: Its sails are 87 feet high, its hull is made of carbon fiber that looks like something out of a science fiction film, with slots where sailors sit low during high-speed races, and sleek foils that look like insects that pop up when maneuvering on the racetrack.
It’s one thing to witness these futuristic technological marvels at home. But seeing them in person made me realize why the America’s Cup is called the F1 of the Seas. These racers—and the hydrogen-powered chase boats that shadow them—are unlike anything else on the water, and we’ll spend the day watching them race, while enjoying Michelin-starred cuisine, champagne, and craft cocktails, provided by the Barcelona-based boutique hotel Almanac.
“You can watch from the shore, but here you get to be in the middle of the action,” said sailboat captain David Mocholi, echoing my thoughts. It was a blue Mediterranean afternoon, with a temperature of 81 degrees and winds of between 8 and 10 knots. Perfect racing conditions. Even from the water, I could see the crowd in the Plaça del Mar Fanzone looking our way. There were only 10 people on board, with a well-stocked bar and a steady flow of delicious food.
Around us, a large number of vessels in the spectator boat section have claimed ringside seats: from large catamarans with a booze cruise feel to elegant sailing yachts, such as the Alloy Yachts Imagineflying the Emirates Team New Zealand flag. On the right is Now IIa gleaming 315-foot superyacht owned by Alinghi Red Bull Racing chairman Ernesto Bertarelli, who has brought the Swiss team back to the America’s Cup after a 14-year absence.
As Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli and NYYC American Magic jockey at the start of the first race, excitement spreads through the spectator boats. You can feel the excitement in the air. Some of the larger tour boats are standing room only, with fans crowding the best vantage points. Other boats are honking their horns at full volume in celebration of the finish line.
As part of the Almanac on Board package, the 45-foot Jeanneau will take up to 10 guests to the races every Saturday through the final weekend, October 26, when the America’s Cup winner is crowned. She is one of several charter boats that will be on hand during the Louis Vuitton Cup and America’s Cup races in Barcelona.
The first race between the Italians and the Americans was exciting, but not close. Luna Rossa crossed the finish line with a 40-second victory. I noticed that the atmosphere on our boat, which was full of journalists, was more relaxed than on our neighbors, who were cheering loudly and honking their horns. Our group was more interested in the food.
Not me. Having been a sailboat racing fan for many years, I was determined to make the most of this opportunity. Our sailboat was scheduled to be in the preferred charter boat zone, but Mocholi had eased us into the Team AC and Partner Boats zone, effectively sneaking into the VIP area for a much better view. But like every spectator boat, we were still quite a distance from the track. Guardia Civil and customs officers in rigid-hulled inflatable boats patrolled the spectator zone, making sure all boats stayed behind the line.
We were further away from the action than I had anticipated; but that made sense from a safety standpoint when you consider the top speed of the AC75 at full speed of 58 mph. That’s a lot of speed for a boat, especially considering that it has no brakes. I really began to appreciate the speed, power, and grace of the AC75 when I saw it up close and admired the skill of the drivers and the agile design of the boat as they jockeyed for position within a few feet of each other at high speed.
Sailing tends to be considered a boring and slow sport by some. However, sailboats have changed the game by making racing fast, exciting and won not just by speed, but also by tactics and risk. I followed the action live as the racers got closest, moving between the bow and cockpit to get the best view. As the two boats disappeared at the end of the course, I watched live on the boat’s iPad. All spectator boats are equipped with a viewing system.
As part of the charter, Almanac had the five-star touches of its Barcelona property on board: The custom-made pillows and toiletries were nice, but even nicer were the oversized beach towels, sunscreen and baseball caps we were given. What we most welcomed, though, was the tasting menu from the hotel’s restaurant, Virens, and the house-made cocktails from its rooftop bar, Azimuth. We enjoyed appetizers first and then a tapas-style feast, creatively prepared by the hotel’s chef using local ingredients and served by their waitstaff.
During the event, the Dom Pérignon was flowing and everyone was having a great time, even if they weren’t as into racing as I was. When we got back to Port Veil, the cranberry, vodka and lime cocktails we had were perfect after a day at sea.
The boats around us show how easy it is to be a spectator following the America’s Cup. And rightly so, especially now that the preliminary heats are over and the semifinals are set to begin on Saturday.
With sports-focused yacht charters becoming increasingly popular, especially in the F1 realm, if there’s one event you can watch from the water, it’s this great women’s sporting event—although, sometimes, you’ll still have to trade the scenery for the sails.
The Almanac on Board package starts at $2,940 for two people for two nights accommodation in a suite, complimentary breakfast, and private transportation to and from the port to watch the races on the Jeanneau 45.
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